Having been to Eighty-One a few times, I basically concur with Frank Bruni's take. Ed Brown is a superb cook, and I have eaten very well at his restaurant. But his food is sometimes overwrought (what Bruni referred to as the "numerous trios"), and the room, with its vivid red-velvet curtains, feels oddly dated and lacks energy. I will say it's a very civilized place to dine. The tables are well-spaced, and the noise level is low. Must-haves on the menu include the lamb three ways (overwrought but delicious) and the exceptional New Bedford sea scallop and foie gras ravioli with straw wine sauce and chervil (Bruni and I disagree on this dish, but scallops and foie gras turn out to be a most felicitous combination as a ravioli filling). Eighty-One is a perfect restaurant to take your in-laws to, especially if they're paying (it ain't cheap). 45 West 81st Street, New York NY 10024 (map)
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