story on the proliferation of wine bars in New York offers terrific historical perspective and lots of insight about the business considerations involved in opening one, but I waited in vain to hear how the food is at the places he mentions. Before he drank wine for a living, Eric ate for his supper for a very long time as the $25 and under reviewer for the Times. Surely he ate and drink copious amounts of food and wine in researching and writing the story. This week in fact I walked by Terroir and Gottino and the menus sounded positively beguiling, not surprising given the fact that Marco Canora (Hearth and Insieme) is responsible for the food at Terroir and Jody Williams (Morandi) does the same at Gottino. So why was there nary a word about the food at either place in the story? Serious eaters, we're just going to have to pick up the slack. I have had a couple of delicious morsels at Blue Ribbon Bar, and I plan to return in the very near future.