on the proliferation of wine bars in New York offers terrific historical perspective and lots of insight about the business considerations involved in opening one, but I waited in vain to hear how the food is at the places he mentions. Before he drank wine for a living, Eric ate for his supper for a very long time as the $25 and under reviewer for the Times. Surely he ate and drink copious amounts of food and wine in researching and writing the story. This week in fact I walked by Terroir
and Gottino and the menus sounded positively beguiling, not surprising given the fact that Marco Canora (Hearth
) is responsible for the food at Terroir and Jody Williams (Morandi) does the same at Gottino. So why was there nary a word about the food at either place in the story? Serious eaters, we're just going to have to pick up the slack. I have had a couple of delicious morsels at Blue Ribbon Bar, and I plan to return in the very near future.