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Photographs of bone marrow, chestnuts, tonburi, pickled honshemeji and soft white chocolate, potato, malt, white beer ice cream courtesy of Tina Wong

Frank Bruni's 3-star review of Wylie Dufresne's molecular gastronomy temple WD-50 may in fact reflect Dufresne and the movement coming of age. In essence Bruni says that Dufresne has moved from chemistry-set user to chef of the delicious. He calls Dufresne's handiwork "amusing, important, and rewarding" and says Dufresne "pushes hard against the envelope of possibility and the bounds of conformity to produce food that’s not only playful but also joyful and even exhilarating, at least when the mad science pays off."

Dufresne now uses the tools of the molecular gastronomy trade to make food that is soulful and avant-garde.

Grant Achatz proved that this seeming sleight-of-hand is possible at Alinea in Chicago, and now it seems as if New York has a temple of molecular gastronomy deliciousness to call its own.

It's not surprising that Dufresne has managed to do this. I've talked to him many times over the years, and there is no doubt that he knows what good is, and he certainly knows what delicious is. Bruni's review recognizes both those facts.

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