Tortellini is one of those pastas that always satisfies but rarely inspires. Yesterday I had the tortellini Fabio Trabocchi is serving at Fiamma these days, and I have to tell you that these tortellini went way beyond satisfying into the realm of supremely, crazily delicious.
The pasta wrappers were light and delicate, but it was the filling that took these suckers to another level. They're filled with Modena cotechino made in-house,a little bit of roast pork, and they come in this lovely Treviso radicchio sauce spiced with lemon zest. Then just to add another level of porkiness, each tortellini is topped with a thin slice of delicious guanciale (hog jowl). These perfect bites of filled pasta are so goddamn earthy and full of flavor they're irresesistable. Fabio says serious eaters can eat at Fiamma and just order the tortellini, without ordering anything else, and that is an offer no serious eater should refuse. Just sit in the lounge, order the tortellini and a glass of wine, and you will be in gustatory heaven.
If you don't have dinner plans this evening you have your marching (or should I say your eating) orders.
206 Spring Street (bet. 6th Ave. and Sullivan Street)
New York, NY