Today Frank Bruni restored the third star he had taken away in 2006 from Le Cirque, and yet he sounded more resigned than excited. The review sounded obligatory. After reading the review a few times I felt that Bruni didn't derive much pleasure from his decadence-driven dining experiences at Le Cirque, and isn't that the whole idea when any of us goes out to eat, to have a good time and to be taken care of?
The question I always ask myself after reading a review is whether the critic would go to the restaurant he reviewed on his own time and spend his own money. I don't think that Frank Bruni is going to be eating at Le Cirque on his own dime any time soon.
Advertisement will not be printed.