Let's face it. Quiches have been a tired food cliché for a long, long time. I can't even remember the last time I ordered a slice of quiche at a restaurant. Somehow the subject of quiche came up last week at Serious Eats world headquarters. Raphael informed the rest of us that the tastiest, richest, most delicious quiche he had ever made and tasted was Thomas Keller's at Bouchon Bakery. I like tasty, rich, and delicious food a lot, so I went over to Bouchon Bakery last Saturday after squash and ordered the quiche of the day.

What I discovered shocked me.

The place was packed, but I managed to snag the last seat available at the bar. I ordered the quiche and salad. I love the rolls at the Bouchon Bakery. They're small, crisp, and chewy on the outside with an airy, just soft enough interior. The basket of rolls comes with terrific butter sprinkled with fleur de sel. The slice of leek and Roquefort quiche (here's the recipe) arrived a few minutes later. I took a bite. Raphael was right. This quiche was intensely flavorful and crazy rich. It was unlike any other quiche I've had in my life. It was basically a savory custard with a buttery, buttery crust. What was amazing was the lovely consistency of the quiche filling, considering it was obviously reheated. How do they do that?

Raphael told me that Keller wrote rapturously about quiche in his Bouchon cookbook. This is what Keller wrote:

It's almost sexual, a great quiche. It's "the seductive pie." And it's hard to say adequately what an important part of cooking it represents to me. It's the essence of luxury, a great delicacy, again using the most common ingredients.

I am ready to write the following sentence on the Ed Levine Eats blackboard 25 times: I will never dis quiche again.

Bouchon Bakery

Address: Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, New York NY 10019 (at 59th Street)
Phone: 212-823-9366


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