Chinese Food, Christmas Day, and the Jews: Where Can We Go for Old-School Chinese?
Four years ago Alex Witchel took a stab at explaining the phenomenon of Jews in New York eating Chinese food on Christmas Day.
Somewhere, Christmas will look like this: cheerful children opening presents that don't break by noon; a glazed ham taking pride of place on the heirloom cherrywood sideboard as the heady aroma of gingerbread wafts through the house, which is itself set upon snow-covered hills where the leafy pine boughs are filigreed in ice.
On the Upper West Side of Manhattan, Christmas will look like this: long lines of people scanning the sold-out signs at the Lincoln Square and Lincoln Plaza Cinemas, each person dressed in boots, vest, scarf, hat, earmuffs and overcoat, all of which they will pile on their laps, once seated. There they will stay, buried beneath their haberdashery, for one movie, maybe two, before heading straight for 43 West 65th Street (Shun Lee West--ed.), where they will devour barbecue spare ribs, Peking duck, lobster with black bean sauce, and espresso and tiramisù for dessert (yep, that's right) -- if they don't just order it in.
Welcome to the conundrum that is Christmas New York style: while most restaurants close for the holiday, or in a few cases, stay open and serve a prix fixe meal laden with froufrou, thousands of diners, most of them Jewish, are faced with a dilemma. There's nothing to celebrate at home and no place to eat out, at least if they want a regular dinner.
In her story, Witchel sings the praises of Shun Lee West and Shun Lee Palace, which can both be terrific Chinese restaurants when they are on their game. When they are not, which is fairly often in my experience, they can both put out overpriced, indifferently and sloppily prepared food.
So where can we go for good Cantonese or Chinese-American food today? Sichuan restaurants somehow don't cut it (eating twice-cooked pork on Christmas Day doesn't seem right), so it would seem as if our options are limited. Shanghainese food is terrific, but eating soup dumplings and Lion's Head on December 25 just isn't the same. So what are we left with?
Pig Heaven serves solid Cantonese and Chinese-American on the Upper East Side. The barbecued meats are especially good.
1540 Second Ave. (80th St.)
New York, NY 10028
Ph: 212-744-4333
Greater New York Noodletown is a fine choice for wonton soup, barbecued meats, and noodle dishes.
Greater NY Noodletown
28 1/2 Bowery (Bayard)
New York, NY 10003
Ph: 212-349-0923
If wonton soup is your thing, head to New Chao Chow, where the wonton soup is a lovely golden color and tastes of fresh coriander and scallions.
111 Mott St (bet. Canal and Hester)
New York 10013
Ph: 212-226-2590
Chinatown Brasserie has the best dim sum in New York, fine Chinese barbecue, and fresh if unexciting noodle dishes.
380 Lafayette St. (at Great Jones)
New York, NY 10013
Ph: 212-533-7000
Upper West Siders who either don't want to spend the money or wait on line at Shun Lee West can have the excellent egg foo young at either La Dinastia (72nd between Columbus and Amsterdam) or La Caridad 78 (Broadway and 78th Street).
I am on my way to my lovely mother-in-law's apartment for lunch. She will be serving ham, corn bread, green beans, and chocolate log today. Next year, I'm hoping to convince her to get her Christmas Day feast delivered by Pig Heaven.
Oh, yes, I have one more question this Christmas Day. Do Jews in other cities eat Chinese food on Christmas Day? I really want to know.
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19 Comments:
We have it on Christmas Eve.
iahawk89 at 11:10AM on 12/25/07
My folks grew up in New England, and "Boston Chinese" was a whole subgenre of Jewish food for them. I don't know if they specifically had it on Christmas, but it was a regular option.
I'm a NYer, though, and Christmas for me is generally all about movies and Chinese food, and has been for years. I remember once seeing some wonderful plates in a crafts catalog called "Jewish Christmas": they were blue & white, like Chinese dishes, but the center had a movie screen with people's heads silhouetted against it, and the rim had alternating takeout cartons and crossed chopsticks. I've always regretted not buying some for myself.
klg19 at 11:31AM on 12/25/07
Chinese was a well honored tradition in Detroit as well. Although the places weren't as crowded as the dim sum places I went to last year, the good chinese places in suburban Detroit could all easily hold a few minyans. In fact, my step-mother introduced a Chinese dinner at their synagogue as an event on Christmas eve, and its now been going on for more than five years (no pork or lobster though).
hreisig at 12:08PM on 12/25/07
Somewhere, Christmas will look like this: cheerful children opening presents that don't break by noon; a glazed ham taking pride of place on the heirloom cherrywood sideboard as the heady aroma of gingerbread wafts through the house, which is itself set upon snow-covered hills where the leafy pine boughs are filigreed in ice.
Ha, ha! That's funny. He forgot to mention the building of the toys that takes till midnight and the runs to the convenience store for fifty dollars worth of batteries!
We all have our burdens to bear, no matter what *religious* holiday we are endowed with.
I was married for a time to a man from a devout Catholic family. They lived in Wesley Hills, which is near Suffern (NY). Their neighborhood had shifted over time from being filled with WASPs to being filled mostly with Orthodox Jews. Somehow as this happened the Christmas dining traditions changed, and every Christmas Day the Catholic family who appeared to be WASPs decided they would have take-out Chinese because that's what some of their neighbors did. Obviously some other of their neighbors would not be likely to in terms of the kosherness of the undertaking, but anyway.
Take-out Chinese is an appealing thing, and almost any excuse is a good one to submit to the urge to do it, to my mind.
As a matter of fact a calendar could be made: 365 Days of Excuses to Go for Chinese Food.
One of them might have to have something to do with utilizing the principle of aftselakhis, just for the heck of it.
Karen Resta at 12:51PM on 12/25/07
In Cleveland, and now Los Angeles - Chinese food on Christmas continues!
My folks do take out, we drive to dim sum.
ohiogal at 1:32PM on 12/25/07
Not sure what you mean, Ed, when you say that twice-cooked pork and lion's head on Christmas don't seem right... please elaborate.
emily20008 at 2:04PM on 12/25/07
I don't know, Emily. I just feel Christmas Day Chinese Food should be Cantonese or Chinese-American. Stuff like egg rolls, fried rice, wonton soup, spare ribs, roast pork, egg foo young. Maybe I'm being too retro and sentimental here. Don't get me wrong, though. I love twice-cooked pork and lion's head.
Ed Levine at 5:29PM on 12/25/07
ed, in answer to your question, i've lived in chicago, san francisco, and paris but never heard of the chinese food for jews on christmas tradition until i moved to new york.
cybercita at 8:23PM on 12/25/07
Huh. Soup dumplings and Lion’s Head is exactly what we ordered (plus pickled cabbage, scallion pancakes, turnip cakes, fried pork dumplings, fried rice cake with “a little bit of everything” . . . and a big plate of Chinese broccoli, to keep us alive).
My team’s challenge this Christmas was not how to find good Cantonese or Chinese-American food, but how to find any restaurant that didn’t have at least a half-hour wait (this was around 6 pm). In the end we went to Goodies, because at least there was room to stand comfortably until a table opened up—unlike at Noodletown, where the vestibule was jam-packed. No doubt this was because of your post.
India at 9:32PM on 12/25/07
Never really thought about Chinese on Christmas Day. Some twenty years ago we ,moved to Long Island and discovered that the Island literally shuts down on Christmas Day. But the one lantern shining in the window was at Ben's Kosher Deli. So every Christmas Day it's become our tradition to head over to Ben's for some matzoh ball soup, corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, thick cut fries, and bowls of sour pickles.
And possibly a kasha knish if we have the room.
JeffsInTheKitchen at 1:12AM on 12/26/07
When I lived in NJ one year on Christmas eve my grandmother was quite ill and they took her to the hospital and the evening's feast got shelved. The younger of us (in our twenties) went out for Chinese. The restaurant was full of many Jewish, Asian and Indian families. The owner who recognized me (I was a regular customer) asked me what happened and sat us down. She asked me to trust her and brought us out some specialities. We had a great meal with many courses and the best coffee I have had to date. I was glad to be with some of my family and we were surrounded by families. There was a nice feeling and atmosphere. When we got home the news on our grandmother was good. I miss NJ and the chinese food. I also miss the Jewish community and deli food. Out here where I am now neither are close or as good.
JerzeeTomato at 6:30AM on 12/26/07
last night ctown was pretty packed. the quote for the wait at Grand Szechuan (by the Manhattan Bridge) was "very long time." Lines out the door at Joe's Shanghai and it's sister restaurant Joe's Ginger. Same at Ping's. NY Noodletown was pretty packed too but at least the line was not out the door. I never knew it would be so packed on Christmas day but it is madhouse.
foodinmouth at 10:56AM on 12/26/07
I have spent Christmas in Baltimore, Chicago, NY, Philly and South Jersey and have always had Chinese food. This Christmas I had dim sum at the Imperial Inn in Philly's Chinatown. The food was great and there was a line out the door by 1:30.
JudyH at 11:58AM on 12/26/07
I am Jewish but I never did the Chinese Food thing on Christmas Day. My family's Christmas tradition was to work at the homeless shelter and we'd have whatever they were being served, usually stoufer's lasagna or meatloaf. Mmmm. (my mom almost never served frozen food so it was a nice treat)
Funny thing is that now I'm living in a DC and I drove down to the National Mall to check out the national tree and I noticed nearly all the Chinese take out places are closed. However most of them were in predominatly Christian neigbhboorhoods.
missjess at 4:09PM on 12/26/07
Chinese restaurants in Miami (even though the food is not great) are crowded on Christmas eve...almost impossible to find any other restaurants open Christmas eve or Christmas day.
elaine nan at 5:22PM on 12/26/07
While Christmas Day may be the busiest day for Chinese restaurants (at least the ones in Jewish neighborhoods!) I think the last day of Passover runs a close second! In Northwest Baltimore it is virtually impossible to get into a Chinese restaurant the very last day of Passover. And they're not even that good to begin with!! Since I grew up in a kosher home this phenomenon is fairly new to me.
RichardCrystal at 11:38AM on 12/28/07
Hilary Price, creator of the "Rhymes with Orange" newspaper comic strip, has a great strip up on her website in the "Jewish" category: labelled "The very first Christmas Eve" with two patriarch-like guys in the desert leading a camel - "What do you feel like eating?" "I have the strangest craving for Chinese."
We went out with another couple Getmas Eve to a little place in Seattle's Ballard District. Our old favorite, Doong Kong Lau, a wonderful family Hakka restaurant near us in north Seattle, closed this year when the owners decided to retire and the location became a very nice Salvadoran restaurant Mi Chalateca. So we were glad to be with friends and trying an unfamiliar restaurant. It turned out that my friend's lady has a severe pork allergy, which was a limiting factor even when we ordered a family dinner (haven't done that in a million years) with BBQ pork fried rice and BBQ pork appetizer (the menu had listed paper-wrapped chicken). Still, we had fun!
And on Christmas Day, snow flurries caused us to demur from our planned expedition to see "The Golden Compass" with a followup dinner at Szechuan Bean-Flower restaurant on Aurora Ave. But we still had plenty of leftovers and new DVDs to enjoy.
Stushi at 12:48PM on 12/28/07
We enjoyed christmas dinner on christmas eve, and our choice for dinner on the 25th was Indian food, so we drove out to Cary which is the land of great ethnic food in the Triangle area, caught a Bollywood flick, then drove down the street to Udipi (South Indian Vegetarian), as good as if not better than the Dosa Diner in Jackson heights.
My husband is half jewish (some would say his two halves cancel each other out, and therefore he is not actually jewish) and although he's lived in NYC for over 10 years, claims he's never eaten chinese food on Christmas. . .
kulolo at 1:33AM on 12/29/07
I think Christmas is my favorite Jewish holiday. This year, at midnight on Christmas Eve, we had matzoh ball soup, chopped liver, cholent, pastrami, and kasha varnishkes at the Second Avenue Deli. For lunch on Christmas Day, we had Peking Duck in Chinatown at (where else) Peking Duck House. Both restaurants were packed.
MartyL at 6:17PM on 01/02/08