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Eatalia: DDL Foodshow Redux? For Now, Go to Coluccio's

Posted by Ed Levine, October 25, 2007 at 4:57 AM

The piece in the New York Times about the impending arrival of the Italian food extravaganza/retail concept Eatalia reminded me of a similar idea that crashed and burned in a big way more than 20 years ago, the DDL Foodshow, created by movie producer Dino DeLaurentis (grandfather of Giada). And does anyone remember Eatzi's? Another Italian marketplace extravaganza imported from Texas to New York that opened and closed in less than a year.

I'm not suggesting that Eatalia will suffer the fate of DDL. Eatalia's owner Oscar Farinetti knows the food business, has a successful model in Turin, Italy, and let's face it, the food world has changed so much in the years since DDL Foodshow opened in November, 1982 and closed in April, 1984, just off Broadway (it was on Columbus in what is currently Calle Ocho). For one thing he seems determined to keep down the prices: “Eataly’s goal,” Mr. Farinetti said, “is to make high-quality Italian foods available to everyone, at sustainable prices and in an informal environment where they can shop, taste and learn.” I don't think that Dino DeLaurentis had similar goals. He was trying to make a big score with a big statement store in the age of greed.

But there are also some similarities in terms of the grandiosity of the owner's vision. The scope of Eatalia is huge, and Italian's eating habits are very different from ours. I would suggest that Mr. Farinetti take on a New York food retailing partner who can instruct him on the ways of the food world in NYC.

I am rooting for him to succeed. The idea of having a real, honest Italian market/restaurant in midtown is incredibly appealing to me and others. I would just advise him to heed the lessons of DDL Foodshow and Eatzi's.

And until Eatalia, I have another cool place to shop for Italian foods after the jump.

Until Eatalia opens, there is a much more modest endeavor I urge all serious eaters to check out. Coluccio's in Brooklyn is essentially an Italian grocery store plunked down in Brooklyn. Many Italian delis I know and love shop there for everything from olive oil to San Marzano tomatoes.

Coluccio's
1218 60th Street
Brooklyn, New York 11219
Ph: 718-436-6700

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Tags: Coluccio's, DDL Foodshow, Eatalia