Frank Bruni's review of Peter Luger's yesterday was absolutely spot on, and what made it so smart was how deftly he placed Luger's in the context of its many clones. Also, he couldn't say what I can, namely that Luger's never should have received three stars in the first place. It is still my favorite steakhouse in the world, but given the rudimentary level of service and the limited reach of the kitchen two stars is what Peter Luger's deserves. Also, isn't it interesting that even with the proliferation of Peter Luger's knock-offs and chef-driven steakhouses there are now no three-star steakhouses in Gotham. But if you go back and read Bruni's piece on Cut, Wolfgang Puck's steakhouse, you get the feeling that if Bruni were to give Cut a full review, three stars would be in the offing.
Advertisement will not be printed.