Market Table, the new market-cum-restaurant from Little Owl's Joey Campanaro and Mike Price, is now open, and, based on one thoroughly enjoyable lunch shared with Serious Eats's Alaina Browne, is certainly worthy of attention. The burger, supposedly made with a mix of meat similar if not identical to the Shake Shack, is absolutely killer, though because it's charcoal-grilled and because its accompaniments—everything from the condiments, toppings, and bun—are completely different from Shake Shack's, you can't make a direct comparison.
Market Table's burger comes with gorgonzola cheese, bacon, and caramelized onions, which are the holy trinity of burger toppings, as far as I'm concerned. The house-made roll has just a little bit of crunch on the outside, and it may be the best hamburger bun in New York at the moment.
But there's something on a roll at Market Table that might be as good or better than the burger.
Maybe even better than the burger is the hoagie, made with top of the line (or should I say "top of the pig") meats: Galloni prosciutto and salami and capicolla from Salumeria Biellese. It also comes with sharp provolone, shredded lettuce, halved Greenmarket cherry tomatoes, some peperoncini that supply just a touch of heat, a shake of oregano, and a phenomenal red wine vinaigrette. Even the just-chewy-enough hero roll from Trio Bakery is a fine stand-in for the Amoroso Bakery rolls from Philadelphia.
The Parmigiana-thyme breadsticks still need a little work (they need more cheese, more tang, and maybe a little more olive oil), and the room-temperature pizza won't make you forget Sullivan Street Bakery, but all in all I think Carmine Street has another hit on its hands. Campanaro and Price are two more food people who know what good and delicious are when it comes to nontricked-up food.
Address: 54 Carmine Street (at Bedford), New York NY 10014 [map]