On Tuesday I went out to dinner with David Leite, founder of the obsessive but excellent Leite's Culinaria as well as the author of that great NYT fried clams piece. We ate at Ouest, and though two food writers dining together don't usually do this, we both ordered the gnocchi with short rib ragu and ricotta cheese. Not exactly light summer fare, but quintessential long, deep, flavor Tom Valenti fare. I kiddingly asked our waiter if the dish was Valenti's way to get rid of yesterday's short ribs. He didn't answer, but once our food arrived and we tore into it, it was crazy good cooking, made with left-overs or not. The gnocchi were light but a little gummy, the short rib ragu was meltingly tender and meaty, and the ricotta cheese was literally the cream on top. It was a perfect plate of food. Maybe come autumn they'll put it on the daily dinner menu, where it rightfully belongs.
Ouest 2315 Broadway (bet. 83rd and 84th Sts.) New York, NY 10024 Ph: 212-580-8700