PrintDeserved Kudos for Franny's
Though some people might be surprised that Frank Bruni gave Franny's two stars I am not. But before I sing Bruni's praises for singing Franny's praises I must point out that Serious Eaters Kuban and Levine have been all over Franny's since it opened. I showered it with extravagant praise in a Pizza: A Slice of Heaven and Slice has extensively covered Franny's crust and its food's essential deliciousness.
But back to Bruni's review. Why does Franny's deserve two stars?
Many reasons. For his clam pizza alone Franny's chef and co-owner Andrew Feinberg deserves two stars. I'll let the superior prose stylist Bruni tell you why:
"The clams have already been liberated and placed on a thick amalgam of clam juice and cream--a doubly clammy whammy. If you ever loved a bivalve, you owe yourself this romance."
But his salads, vegetables, and salumi also worthy of high praise and two stars. Feinberg is flat out one of New York's best young chefs. I haven't been to Franny's since Feinberg reinstated pasta on his menu, and from what Bruni says, they can be inconsistent. But you can skip the pasta and have an extraordinary meal at Franny's.
How good is it? I wish Franny's was in my neighborhood, so that I could become a regular.
Franny's
295 Flatbush Avenue (Prospect Place)
Prospect Heights, Brooklyn
Ph: 718-230-0221
Photograph from waywuwei on Flickr
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5 Comments:
Ed: Small point of clarification. I did not cover "its food's essential deliciousness." I have only covered Franny's pizza and have never had anything on the menu there other than pizza, beer, and/or wine.
Adam Kuban at 10:19AM on 08/29/07
i've only been to franny's once, not long after it opened - i thought it was pretty tasty. as for 2 stars, i can't say - i'd have to try it again.
j at 6:33PM on 08/29/07
I have been thinking all day about the 2 star review. Can you
give an Italian restaurant two stars if they can't make a proper
bowl of pasta?
Ed Levine at 6:45PM on 08/29/07
"Can you give an Italian restaurant two stars if they can't make a proper
bowl of pasta? "
I'd say ....no....but doesn't Franny's tout themselves as a pizzeria rather than an Italian restaurant? If yes.....than 2 stars seems appropriate…I’ve heard nothing but kudos regarding their pizzas
kim @ apizza scholls
Kim Nyland at 2:34PM on 09/01/07
I'm lucky enough to have Franny's in my neighborhood. I've had two pasta dishes there, and both were certainly "proper" and excellent. The best was chitarra with bottarga, one of the best bowls of pasta I've had in months. Also good is the pork cheek and beef tongue terrine with salsa verde.
Though an affordable Italian place with exemplary food in one's neighborhood probably leads to bias, I think Franny's deserves both stars.
Blake Royer at 2:55PM on 09/01/07