My friend and neighbor Brian Koppelman is just about as passionate about food as he is about movies, which is saying something, considering he and his writing partner, David Levien, have written screenplays like Ocean's 13 and Rounders. He has strong opinions about everything from pizza to sushi, so I've invited him to the Serious Eats table for periodic communiques that Brian will post in the form of "Dear Ed" letters. Here's his first one. —Ed Levine

Dear Ed,

I'm of the belief that sushi doesn't travel. That's why I never order it in. And that must be why I've waited six months to try Sasabune in New York City. See, the L.A. Sasabune is one of my all-time favorite restaurants, and I guess I figured that if the toro doesn't taste as fresh when the delivery guy has to take it three blocks, Sasabune wasn't going to be the same 3,000 miles away.

I was wrong. The restaurant is stunning. Chef Kenji Takahashi learned at the sword of Nobi Kusuhara at the original Sasabune and, in the tradition of his master, is so dedicated to perfection that he himself hits the fish market first thing every morning before personally making every single piece of sushi and sashimi that his establishment serves from noon until midnight. If you haven't checked it out yet, you really should. It's top shelf.


Sushi Sasabune

New York City: 401 East 73rd Street, New York NY 10021; 212-249-8583
Los Angeles: 12400 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 150; Los Angeles CA 90025; 310-820-3596


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