Telepan: Another Good Answer to the Brunch Question

Like many New Yorkers, I am constantly on the lookout for good brunch spots. On Sunday I discovered a great New York brunch at Telepan.

It's $28 for two courses plus an insanely good house-made bread basket that includes scones, coffee cake, and killer banana bread.

The sheep's milk ricotta blintzes are lighter than my grandmother's, who of course didn't use sheep's milk ricotta as her filling, anyway. The smoked brook trout was a leaning tower of house-smoked fish atop a blini smeared with sweet-onion sour cream. The Fallen Pancakes Soufflé were silos of featherlight pancake batter studded with brown-sugar bacon and huckleberry syrup.

Even the biscuits and gravy, served with house-made breakfast sausage and poached eggs, were simultaneously homey and sophisticated, a tough culinary balancing act that Telepan achieved with virtually every dish we sampled.

Of course, being the beef and bacon addict I am, I ordered chef-owner Bill Telepan's burger, which is as good a fancy-pants burger as there is to be found in the city. It's served with Nueske's bacon, cheddar cheese, a hillock of housemade pickles, terrific french fries, sourdough onion rings, and pickles. You won't have room for the unnecessary desserts, which cost extra anyway.

I discovered Ouest's great brunch a few months ago, and now that I have discovered Telepan's, I now have two Upper West Side brunch spots to frequent and recommend.

TELEPAN

Address: 72 West 69th Street, New York NY 10023 (b/n Central Park West and Columbus Avenue)
Phone: 212-580-4300
Website: telepan-ny.com

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