PrintApple Turnovers Rule!
A good apple turnover, like a good man, is hard to find. We're talking seriously good here: flaky, moist, buttery pastry, just firm enough, not too sweet, apples that have been cooked and carmelized before fill the pastry, and-this is key-the right ratio of pastry to apples.
Bad apple turnovers are ubiquitous in New York and elsewhere. You know the ones I'm talking about: hard, unyielding pastry, gelatinous apple filling that belongs in a Hostess Apple pie, and that disgusting white frosting that should be used as mortar.
The unquestioned apple turnover queen in New York is Madeleine Lanciani of Duane Park Patisserie, 179 Duane Street (between Hudson and Greenwich Sts.) 212-274-8447. Her apple turnovers are flakier than Robin Williams, and so buttery they would be banned from every cardiologist's waiting room I can think of. WARNING: In order to secure one of these turnovers you must get to the shop before ten a.m. I can't tell you how many times I've been disappointed when I waltz in there ship around noon.
New York's best unsung apple turnover can be had at Patisserie Margot (2109 Broadway (on 74th Street just west of Broadway) 212-721-0076. Nacole Jacam's turnovers are rectangularly shaped rather than triangular. But the pastry is light and crunchy and delicious, and the filling is cinammony and almost tart. I only wish the pastry to filling ratio was a little lower.
Claude,the impossibly French owner of Patisserie Claude (187 West 4th St. (bet. sixth and seventh avenues.) 212-255-5911, is so grouchy I always hesitate before recommending anyone going into his patisserie. I relent every time because his apple turnovers and croissants are so damn fine. Claude did smile at me last time I was in there, maybe it was because I bought one of everything he had out, or maybe he's just mellowing out as he gets older.
I can't think of another apple turnover in this berg worth calling out. Did I miss any?
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6 Comments:
I'm partial to Balthazar's apple moon-shaped apple turnovers... but that's just b/c it's easy (the'yre everywhere)... I'll definitely try some of these out--it's the season!
Ed, a lil' o/t but is there a place where one can get a good tart tatin? I've been craving one since I watched Jacques Pepin make one..
dbdtron
dbdtron at 11:42AM on 11/08/06
oh you missed a HUGE one!
Tarallucci e Vino's is possibly one of the greatest things I've ever put in my mouth.
The pastry actually fractures into giant buttery shards which then melt in your mouth, while the filling is not too sticky, not too sweet and redolent of fresh cream.
It's a truly transcendent pastry epiphany.
Ann at 1:55PM on 11/08/06
Assuming that you may have readers in places other than NYC, I love the apple turnovers -- and other pastries -- from Patisserie Poupon in Baltimore, Md (and Georgetown, D.C.). They also sell them at Tryst, the D.C. coffeeshop that was blogger central on CNN during the election coverage last night.
Their apple danish (though it seems wrong to call it a danish with all the things that usually implies) are the best pastries I've had in any city, including Paris (where I was vaguely disappointed) and I miss them badly here in NY. Ceci-Cela's and Balthazar's are close, but don't really measure up.
moth23 at 4:45PM on 11/08/06
I had wonderful apple turnovers baked by Bread Alone up near Woodstock. Truly one of the best things I've ever eaten.
priscilla at 5:08PM on 11/08/06
Claude's baking is the finest; I used to live next to his shop and now enjoy turnovers at Patisserie Margot. Both their turnovers are a joy.
P.S. Claude may be a little French grouchy, but when I was struggling past in the hot sun on crutches one day he did give me a bottle of Perrier "on the home" so I'm a big fan ...
Borys Harmaty at 11:17AM on 05/31/07
Claude is warm and gentle to people he trusts. He is a delight to be around with. He is also one of the persons I miss the most after relocating to Shanghai.
When you visit his shop next time, pay attention to the photography on the wall. It will make a big difference, try it.
L. from Shanghai at 11:35AM on 06/24/07