PrintThe Tuna Salad of My Dreams
I'm not a tuna salad freak, but I know what I like. I like the tuna salad sandwiches on rye or white toast at Eisenberg's, though I haven't been there since the latest owners took over. Nothing fancy there, just canned Bumble Bee Tuna and Hellman's mayo, mashed together with a big spoon. I like a classic salad nicoise, made with canned tuna (the way Julia Child liked it), but I've never had a tuna salad I craved until I had Giancarlo Quaddalti's tuna, red onion, and bread
salad at Teodora, the best Italian restaurant in New York that no one knows about.
I was reminded of this last night, when I had another quietly perfect meal at Teodora (141 E.57th St. (just west of Lex on the north side of the street). I don't know what it is about the tuna salad that makes it so great. Quaddalti uses Italian tuna, shaved red onion, toasted bread cubes, red wine vinegar, capers, and I don't know what else. I have asked Quaddalti, and he won't give up the recipe. Maybe I'll try again.
It's not a particularly pretty plate of food, with its various shades of dark brown, red, and tan. But it tastes like heaven. It is the tuna salad of my dreams, and maybe of yours as well.
But perhaps there are other great tuna salads out there in the world. I don't know.
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5 Comments:
I think I once posted about a relevatory tuna sandwich I had in a corner bar in Madrid--olive oil packed tuna, roasted red peppers and plump anchovies, all canned products. It would be as good on a plate, although I've never seen anchovies as plump here in the states. Once we accostumed ourselves to Italian tuna canned in olive, we've had no taste for Bumble Bee or any American brand packed in just "oil," water or broth. After having mayonnaise in France, say with a plateau de fruits de mer, the Hellman's mayo of my childhood now tastes like dessert with all it's sweetness, but Americans like sugar in their vinaigrette. Taste in food is very subjective.
Bux at 11:16AM on 10/18/06
my two favorite tuna salad sandwiches are awfully predictible... 'wichcraft and dean & deluca, but i stand behind them as the two finest uses for canned tuna outside of my own kitchen
why? with 'wichcraft, it's all about the lemons, oh, and the olive oil, and yeah, the shaved fennel
frikin' DELICIOUS!
i crave it nearly everyday
and d&ds? it's all about the capers, the dill and the bread. if on the day you go it's not being served on marble bread, pass it up and go again another day.
and my favorite way to make and eat tuna salad at home?
with italian olive oil packed tuna, capers, a touch of mayo & lemon juice, salt, lots of freshly cracked pepper and lots and lots of chiffonade-ed mint, mixed with bowtie pasta. sooooooo yummy!
Ann at 12:05PM on 10/18/06
My wife's favorite dish at Teodora is their vitello tonnato. The tuna, capers, anchovies, olive oil and cream in the sauce on the veal will make you forget about ordering the salad.
guttergour at 2:06PM on 10/19/06
Bouchon serves a pretty killer tuna nicoise.. really killer!
dbdtron at 9:24AM on 10/20/06
Olives in Soho on Prince (btw Wooster & Greene St) makes a tuna sandy with Grilled Yellowfin Tuna (served with watercress and tomato on seven grain bread). I have to admit it needs seasoning, but if you want to be "healthy" it's a great way to go. My favorite addiction there is their Italian Hero. You won't go wrong with that sandwich.
Decca at 4:50PM on 12/30/07