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My Top Ten NYC Slices

By popular demand, here's a list of my top ten pizza slices in NYC:

1) DiFara (you all know where it is)

2) Adrienne's (Old Stone St., Wall Street)

3) Patsy's (117th and First Avenue)

4) Joe and Pat's (Staten Island)

5) Nunzio's (Staten Island)

6) Sullivan Street Bakery

7) Sal and Carmine's (102nd and Broadway)

8) Joe's (Carmine Street and Park Slope)

9) Grandma Slices at Maffei (22nd and Sixth)

10) Louie and Ernie's (Bronx)

Anybody beg to differ?

19 Comments:

I like the slice list, though I'm not so sure about Patsy's. The slices in the slice storefront are floppy and insipid, and if someone drove up to east harlem to eat them they would be sorely disappointed. I would put in a vote for DeMarco's, which is 90% as good as its parent Di Fara; the grandma slice at Vinny Vincenz, so good I eat it cold; and the coal-oven slices at Sac's Place in astoria.

Josh

Bella Vita. It's the best! And it's conveniently located right next door to The New York Times on 43rd Street.

I had to register to reply to the comment that De Marco is 90% as good as Di Fara -- a statement which I cannot comprehend or relate to on any level at all.

Di Fara could easily be the finest pizza -- slice or not -- available anywhere on earth, and certainly has no equal on this Continent. Domenic is a true artisan, and takes immense pride in his product. De Marco on the other hand, is nothing but an attempt by his kids to palm off their father's lifetime achievements and reputation, and sell a horribly inferior product based upon the aura created by him. The De Marco kids seem entirely unashamed to serve garbage food, made with little or no care, and served with little or no pride. Unlike every other pizza place in town without a pizza maestro to learn from, these guys have no excuse. They know how to make a quality product, but don't care to bother to do so. There is nothing sadder in this world than unfulfilled potential, and De Marco is the absolute personification of it.

I agree wholeheartedly with Ed's inclusion of Sullivan Street Bakery, but believe it should be higher on the list (#2). Sullivan Street serves a very high quality product in the true Roman style, which was totally unique in New York when they started. I do find it frustrating however, that they treat the pizza as something of an afterthought vis a vis the larger bakery operation they have, and do not take any efforts to serve their pizza warm. It would be nice if they could focus a bit more on the pizza, and took care to serve it at its best.

My only other quarrel with the list is that being a "10 Best" list, it necessarily includes 10 stores. It is an unfortunate reality that there are no longer 10 places in this City which serve a good slice of pizza, and the list is necessarily over inclusive. The pizza in this town -- like many food genres -- has become completely miserable over the years, and New York can no longer meet the burden of filling 10 spots on such a list.

Hm, don't know if you've tried it, but Rosa's Pizza, on 69th stree t in Woodside, Queens is one of my favorite places. Your list is very solid though.

I love Patsy's pizza, it is as good as DiFara no doubt. I must STRONGLY object to your exclusion of Grimaldi's in brooklyn heights. Their crust is an as close to perfection as one can get, easily as good or better then DiFara and Patsy's. Such an admission calls into question your credibility to say the least.; equivalent to a steak authority failing to include Luger's on their NYC top 10 list.

My mistake. If you are excluding restaurants that refuse to serve by the slice, then your omission is acceptable...

Jozerky: Regarding Patsy's, I have on rare occassion experienced a soggy slice at, although their pies never fail and the soggy slice an exception not a rule. Nine times out of ten their slices are just out of the oven in my experience and sublime.

As for Sac's, no way. Their crust is usually doughy and undercooked, the sauce clearly a canned prefab concoction. Their "fresh" mozarella polios or someother nonsense. In queens, you should try Alba's fresh mozarella pie on Ditmar's. Certainly not a top 10 pie, but certainly good in a pinch and heads above Sac's.

i am going to have to disagree with grandma's on 22nd and sixth. it's pretty much midgrade, nothing to write home about anyway. if you want a good slice and you are in that area, walk east and go to frank's pizza on 23rd street between park and lexington, right next to the dunkin donuts. mmm, so good.

Sadly, I must now agree with Lester re: Maffei's grandma slice. A few years back when I first tried it, it was one of the best slices I ever had, and I thought the regular slices were really good as well. Now that the neighborhood is a mini-MPD, the quality has diminished greatly based upon my last several visits.

Rigoletto's on 70th & Columbus is really good (not too cheesy and always well done, my preferences).

I do not understand the affinity people have for Sal & Carmine's. My cuz (who is a pizza afficienado) and I checked it out recently. Extremely average.

Original Pizza II on Ralph Ave. in Mill Basin. G-d do I miss that place now that I am in Manhattan.

Keithrez

A top 10 list is great and all but what are the criteria for best slice that these places meet? Do places make the list because the crust is extra thin and crispy or a little thicker, because of a certain quality of the sauce?

I would think they make the list based upon the subjective variable of taste. (i.e. I am not a cheese fan other than pizza, so the places with the really fresh buffalo mozz don't work for me, like Adriennes). I can def see why people rave about the place though.

Keithrez

Makanmata, it is very unfair of you to call DeMarco's "garbage food." That kind of foodie vitriol bums me out. There's no doubt that DeMarcos can never be as good as Di Fara, because Dom isn't there making the pie. But it is "the kids" who make the sauce at Di Fara, and I hate to break it to you, but it's the exact same sauce at DeMarco's. Also the same cheese: the same grana, the same grande, the same mozzarella di bufala. Their square pie is a flop, I'll admit, but to say that Dom's kids take no pride in the product served there is an insult, and dead wrong into the bargain. It was no accident that DeMarco's won a best slice contest last year sponsored by some radio station.

Josh

[1]

Jozersky, Some people have a passion for politics, others for religion, but my passion is reserved for food, and its deteriorating state in this City and our Nation. I'm sorry if my attitude bums you out -- it is not my intention or desire at all -- but I am bummed out by people's acceptance of mediocrity, and even more by the elevation of that mediocrity to a position of respect and admiration. Personally, I have no tolerance at all for mediocrity, and less still for those who foist off inferior quality products with special bravado and hype. Such attitudes, in my own opinion, only serve to guarantee that the status quo is maintained, and the sorry state of our cuisine allowed to freely continue its disintegration.

So, I call it like I see it, and to me -- with apologies in advance to you -- De Marco pizza is "garbage." I mean this not only in the figurative sense, but also in the very literal meaning of the word, in that many a De Marco pie -- I have given them many, many chances -- has wound up in the garbage due to our unwillingness to consume it.

For whatever its worth, the sauce is simply not the same -- and as you probably know, Dom's sauce is not the same on a day to day basis due to his picking and choosing the best available ingredients on any given day or season -- regardless of what the kids might say to invoke Dom's aura. Rather, it is an expedient, commercial version of Dom's sauce. The cheeses used might have some overlap -- though they are not identical -- but this too misses the main point. Dom cares deeply about his pizza -- the dough, the yeast, the rise, the sauce, the herbs, the oil, the cheeses, the bake -- and the people running De Marco (who are often not his kids) just don't. As a result of all of this, every slice that leaves Dom's counter is a masterpiece of his creation, passion, and dedication to quality, and the pizza that leaves De Marco's will never be anything but a poor imitation.

Let's agree that De Marco is not the worst pizza in New York. De Marco strikes a special chord in me however, not simply because it is no better than average, but because it inhabits the space of the lowest common denominator while portraying itself -- and encouraging others to portray it -- as an exercise in greatness, and falsely invoking the aura of Di Fara. In doing so, the mediocrity that is De Marco is accepted, elevated, and even celebrated, while the high art that is Di Fara losses something in the process.

So, I would suggest that the use of the term “garbage” is not unwarranted vitriol, but if anything, speaks too softly in the face of the threat that the acceptance of mediocrity poses to our food and culture. The loss of quality food is a very real threat to our quality of life, and while some people might not think it worthy of invoking strong words, I simply don’t agree. By maintaining a sense of passion about our food, we have a chance to win the fight against mediocrity, and preserve the precious little food culture we have left here.

We're forgetting something here - Dom's "kids" are barely involed in DeMarco's anymore. First of all, the primary investor/restaurateur was somebody outside the family - the kids were only somewhat involved, and did not and do not have control. Second - none of the kids work there very much at all. DeMarco's is wildly erratic - sometimes they turn out a pretty good slice, but sometimes it's pretty lousy. Third, the ingredients are not identical to DiFara - because DeMarco's can't afford it - I have heard this from the horses' mouths. They have a big fat rent to pay.

Anybody who says it's 90% of what DiFara is (with all due respect to Josh) either just got freakishly lucky every time they went, or they're caught up in the idea that it's Dom's kids (which it hardly is).

with all due apologies to EL:

list, like most, written with bias; & unfortunately loses ALL credibilty by INcluding sal & carmine's, & leaves all others on the "list" very suspect as to quality.

sal & carmines is a very average-to-below-average slice or pizza that one can purchase at any ANY pizza joint anywhere, on any block, & resembles a piece of cardboard with cheap cheese & canned tomato sauce!

as one of the above posters aptly points out: "what is the attraction of sal & carmines???"

Here's my toss-in, not necessarily to include on a 10 best list, but, oh....let's say it should be included on an "underrated" or "underappreciated" list of NY pizzerias. The place is called Dani's House of Pizza, located in an almost surreal kaddy-corner space buttressing the back of a Long Island railroad station in Kew Gardens. The slice, at least when I have eaten it, has always been fresh, crisp, thin but juicy, and loaded with the kind of flavor that emphasizes an oregano-laden, slightly sweet sauce. The cozy counter faces an ice box full of beers with exotic, cartoonish labels, so why not down one while you have a slice or two. Not only is this joint a half-block away from one of NYC's last remaining art house cinemas (the Kew Gardens Cinema), but, lo and behold, it's right across the street from neighborhood newcomer and mini-chain Singha's Famous. (Hey...what the hell...why not make a night out of it?) Better yet, take advantage of the Lefferts Boulevard location to grab a pie or two on your way to the airport. Who says you can't get a good slice in Queens? As for Ed's list, I can't quibble, having been to at least half of the places listed, but, hey, i like to champion the little guys. That said, how about a shout-out for the often brilliant sicilian slice at Spumoni Gardens?

Makanmata wrote:

"The De Marco kids seem entirely unashamed to serve garbage food, made with little or no care, and served with little or no pride. Unlike every other pizza place in town without a pizza maestro to learn from, these guys have no excuse. They know how to make a quality product, but don't care to bother to do so. There is nothing sadder in this world than unfulfilled potential, and De Marco is the absolute personification of it."

Incredibly and entirely arrogant commentary, even though I would agree that De Marco's makes a sub-par slice. What makes you think that, intrinsically, Dom's kids have the talent to make a pizza anywhere near as good as papa, even if they were trying?

As far as I know, Dom has absolutely nothing to do with this operation whatsoever.

Makanmata further ponticates:

"So, I would suggest that the use of the term “garbage” is not unwarranted vitriol, but if anything, speaks too softly in the face of the threat that the acceptance of mediocrity poses to our food and culture. The loss of quality food is a very real threat to our quality of life, and while some people might not think it worthy of invoking strong words, I simply don’t agree. By maintaining a sense of passion about our food, we have a chance to win the fight against mediocrity, and preserve the precious little food culture we have left here."

Thanks for this bullshit global culinary commentary.

Joe's in Park Slope? Really? A painfully average slice of your typical "i'm drunk and need some cheap, greasy food" pizza. How can this possibly be on the list when No. 28 Carmine in the West Village and Lucali's in Carroll Gardens is left off? How dare you?

Brooklyn: Di Fara's is a masterpiece, as is Totonno's. Joe's in Park Slope is atrocious.
Spumoni Gardens somewhere in the middle.

UWS: I like V & T Pizzeria near Columbia University on Amsterdam Ave. Also Sal & Carmine walking distance from Symphony Space on Broadway.

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