When you order a burger in a fancy-pants environment and it turns out to be great, it's a sure sign that the fancy-pants chef in charge of the kitchen loves a good burger as much as the rest of us. So the only conclusion I can draw after having a burger at Country is that the chef there, Doug Psaltis, has eaten his share of burgers once he takes off his toque and chef whites. The burger at Country is served on a homemade English muffin (it tasted like a brioche roll to me) with special sauce and French Fries Provencal. All pretensions aside, this burger is terrific. It has a properly charred and seared exterior and a wonderfully juicy and meaty interior. The special sauce is a fairly nondescript thousand island dressing that doesn't do much for the burger either way. The french fries provencal were just great french fries, crispy on the outside, soft and tender on the inside, with just the right amount of fancy-pants pimenton salt. The burger at Country is fifteen bucks without cheese, but it's a worthwhile plate of food. On the fancy-pants Burger scale, Country's burger gets a 9 out of 10. For more on burgers fancy-pants and otherwise check out my piece on burgers in the Times.
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