Mallomars dreams

When you're on a diet, and you love food as much as I do, you find yourself living (and eating) vicariously through other people's experiences and stories. Last Thursday New York Times reporter James Barron wrote a hilarious and sharp-eyed piece about mallomars , those superb chocolate-covered marshmallow cookies only available in the cooler months. His lead: "Proust had his madeleines. Douglas Boxer had his Mallomars." He then goes on to write: "like Beaujolais nouveau, Mallomars are not a year-round delicacy....Mallomars return to supermarket in the fall after a warm-weather break. But Mallomars connoisseurs do not celebrate by holding tastings of the new batch or by calling friends to announce "les Mallomars sont arrives."

Barron called me for a comment on the story, but I returned his call after the story was put to bed. I told him that he should have gotten a quote from Alice Waters. After all, Alice, as a huge proponent of seasonal foods and cooking, should appreciate the seasonal nature of Mallomars, even if it is a packaged, processed food made by Kraft.

Barron then goes on to pose a series of cosmically hilarious Mallomars questions:

"What is the singular of Mallomars, anyway?"

"If they can produce chocolate that can survive in Saudi Arabia, why don't they do that with Mallomars?"

Now I really like Mallomars, though I'm not as passionate about them as many of the people Barron interviewed. But when you're on a diet, a Mallomar (I have made an executive decision that Mallomar is singular) sounds just about perfect.

Serious Eats Newsletters

Keep up with our latest recipes, tips, techniques and where to eat!

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: